CROP ROTATION

Vegetables shouldn’t be grown in the same spot year after year. If they are then two main problems arise. Firstly, soil-living pests and disease that thrive on the crop will increase in numbers. Secondly, continuous cropping with the same vegetable may lead to the levels of nutrients in the soil to become unbalanced. Therefore a simple crop rotation plan is needed to move the plants around every year. There can be an area in the plot for growing things that don’t need to move like asparagus and rhubarb, but for the rest of the patch a 3-year rotation plan can be drawn out. The main routine is this: Plant a root crop one year then an above ground crop the next then go back to root crop in the third year.

YEAR 1
ROOTS
BRASSICAS
OTHERS


YEAR 2
OTHERS
ROOTS
BRASSICAS

YEAR 3
BRASSICAS
OTHERS
ROOTS

YEAR 4
SAME AS
YEAR 1

Here’s a definition of the categories:

ROOTS: These are crops such as beetroot, carrot, Jerusalem artichoke, parsnip, potato and salsify (a bit like a skinny parsnip) For these crops no manure should be added and the ground doesn’t need to be limed. A general fertilizer could be raked into the soil 2 weeks before planting.

BRASSICAS: These are broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, radish, swede and turnip. Some well-rotted manure could be added and the soil can be limed unless you are sure that the soil is already alkaline (a soil testing kit will tell you this)

OTHERS: This area will cover beans, celery, cucumber, leaf beet, leek, lettuce, marrow, onion, peas spinach, sweet corn and tomatoes. In this year loads of well rotted manure can be added and lime if the soil is acid.

Pest free gardening tips:

1 Choose plants that look after themselves
Don't create a plant protection problem by trying to grow unsuitable plants. If they are growing in the right conditions most established plants - and especially natives - will shrug off all but the most severe pest attacks.
If you have persistent problems with particular plants, try moving them somewhere else. If you can't find anywhere suitable, give up the unequal struggle and grow something different - they are trying to tell you that they don't belong in your garden at all!

2 Give new plants a fighting chance
Beware sowing or planting seedlings too early, especially on a cold, heavy soil. When plants have to cope with soil or weather that is too cold for them, they struggle to get going and are a sitting target for pests. You can use cloches or fleece to warm the soil first and to protect plants in the critical first week or so. You can also sow indoors in pots or a container and plant out when the seedlings are big enough to survive a few nibbles. Remember to keep back a few spares to replace the plants you do lose - it usually involves no more cost and little extra effort.

3 Nip problems in the bud
Get used to looking at your plants closely and often. If you have not done it before, it will open up a new world of tiny creatures engaged in a continual battle for survival. It will also enable you to detect the most destructive pests in the early stages, when a few quick squeezes between finger and thumb may snuff out the problem (millipedes sound very crispy!). You will also be able to see whether or not natures own defenders (for example ladybirds) are winning before you bring in the reinforcements!

Check out what to plant with this great little app

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