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Paul’s Ponderings Paul Blaker is an avid mulcher
Here are a few words about a favourite gardening technique of mine that I share with other lazy or some would like to think, efficient gardeners. After all, who wants a garden that looks wonderful but has left you with a slipped disc through digging?
Gardens are for sitting in, eating and drinking in and playing in. They are for pleasures to be enjoyed, not in my opinion trials to be endured. To make as much time available for the fun activities and to reduce the need for hard labour think MULCH.
Score pointsWhat a great word it is. Use it in Scrabble to score lots of points! Say it out loud a few times and you will find yourself starting to relax and feeling calmer. (The people around you however may start to worry about you and suggest professional help!) Once you have caught the mulching bug and seen the results you can achieve, you will want to pass it on and when your friends see what happens they will want to catch it too. Instead of digging (or double digging) your garden before planting you can simply mulch. Mulching is applying a top dressing of organic or inorganic materials to suppress weeds and improve soil fertility. You can use well-rotted horse manure, mushroom compost, seaweed, carpet, cardboard and even old cotton rags.
It is complementary to the use of compost but easier. I have used this system in the past with excellent results however you need to keep your nerves as old bits of carpet and cardboard lying around the garden does not exactly have that “garden makeover” look. The system may take a year or two to look good but when the materials have rotted in the soil is wonderfully rich, producing great crops of veggies, loads of flowers etc. Why dig? Why dig anyway! It is a primeval instinct. Put a spade in the hand of a small child and they will immediately imitate a digging action. Though lazy to a point of fastidious principle I still see a spade and think dig. We have evolved the mind-set to dig but have yet to develop the back muscles and stamina. If you want a he man body go to the gym, if you want an Eden to laze about in put your spade beyond use and start to mulch (it saves on weeding too)!
Farmers are digging all the time. They call it ploughing and use big machines to take the strain. It is the technique that humans have used since they first settled and developed agriculture in the near east thousands of years ago to keep the forest at bay. It’s a great idea if you want to grow a cereal crop quickly in a semi arid climate but it requires lots of intense inputs both in labour and resources to maintain its fertility. It also damages the natural soil structure.
Soil is a complex and wonderful medium. A hand full of dirt is a source of endless fascination. Put it under the microscope and there is more life and drama than a week of soap output on the telly.
Bacteria
Let's consider the bacteria that live in the soil. There are two main groups, aerobes that live in the first few inches, thriving in the surface conditions and anaerobes that live a bit deeper and like it cold, dark and wet.
When we dig we change this natural state of affairs and by turning the soil we put the penthouse dwellers into the basement and the basement dwellers into the penthouse. They do not like this at all. In fact they dislike it so much they die! Initially this has a beneficial effect and the soil is made more fertile as the bacteria decompose. In time however, the soil becomes less productive relying on expensive inputs of artificial fertilizer. So mulching makes sense. Mulching on the other hand can be done anytime. An annual mulch of bulky organic matter after applying the fertiliser will benefit trees by reducing water loss and suppressing weeds, as well as providing some nutrients. Mulching can halve fertiliser needs and is ideal for organic growers. Bulky organic materials include stable or farmyard manure, mushroom compost, spent hops, leafmould and garden compost. Mulching fruit Mushroom compost often contains chalk and as most fruit prefers acid conditions, it should not be used too frequently except on very acid soils. Do not apply to raspberries. Straw can be used as a surface mulch to conserve moisture, but if it is incorporated into the soil it must be well rotted or, alternatively, extra nitrogen must be applied. Pears, plums, and damson trees especially need additional water in the summer and will benefit from mulching. Newly planted fruit trees and cane fruits need regular watering and should be mulched to conserve moisture and promote strong growth. Red currants, white currants, gooseberries and raspberries are difficult to grow on light soils but benefit from mulching. Even with mulches you may need to water in dry spells. Ideally, keep a grass-free zone, at least 1m (1yd) wide, around trees to reduce competition and allow mulching. Apples and pears appreciate a low-nutrient mulch - such as garden compost, while plums and cherries respond to richer rotted manure.
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All About Mulch
When applied correctly, mulch has the following beneficial effects on plants and soil
* Mulches prevent loss of water from the soil by evaporation.
* Mulches reduce the growth of weeds, when the mulch material itself is weed-free and applied deeply enough to prevent weed germination or to smother existing weeds.
* Mulches keep the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, thus maintaining a more even soil temperature.
* Mulches prevent soil splashing, which not only stops erosion but keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the plants.
* Organic mulches improve the soil structure. As the mulch decays, the material becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch also adds nutrients to the soil.
* Mulches prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus improving the absorption and movement of water into the soil.
* Mulches help prevent the trunks of trees and shrubs from damage by lawn equipment.
* Mulches help prevent soil compaction.
* Mulches can add to the beauty of the landscape by providing a cover of uniform color and interesting texture to the surface.
* Mulched plants have more roots than plants that are not mulched, because mulched plants will produce additional roots in the mulch that surrounds them.
Types of Mulch
There are basically two types of mulches: organic and inorganic. Both types may have their special place in the garden.
An organic mulch is a mulch made of natural substances such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles, or grass clippings. Organic mulches attract insects, slugs, cutworms and the birds that eat them. They decompose over time and need to be replaced after several years.
Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, pebbles, black plastic and landscape fabrics, do not attract pests and they do not decompose.
Organic Mulches - We Always Recommend!
Organic Mulch Materials
Your yard "trash" (branches, pine cones, ect.) can be recycled as mulch with the advantage of retaining the nutrients found in these organic materials, in addition to saving money otherwise spent in transporting and disposing of the yard trash.
Grass Clippings
The best use for grass clippings is to leave them on the lawn. Grass clippings will decompose rapidly, adding nutrients back into the soil. A two-inch layer of grass clippings provides weed control if they are not full of weed seeds. It is best to build up the layer gradually using dry grass.
Hay / Straw
Never use hay for mulch since it contains too many weed seeds. Straw decomposes rapidly, so you will have to replenish it to keep the weeds down. Straw is not very ornamental and is best for a vegetable garden or over newly sown lawns. Straw will improve the soil as it decays. straw
Leaves
A 2- to 3- inch layer of leaves provides good weed control. It is best to shred the leaves coarsely, using a shredder or your lawn mower. Whole leaves have a tendency to blow away, while finely shredded leaves do not allow water to penetrate. Oak and beech leaves help to acidify the soil for acid-loving plants. Leaves are usually easy to get, attractive as a mulch, and they will improve the soil once they decompose. Leaves
Pine Bark
A 2- to 3- inch layer of pine bark is good for weed control. Pine bark makes an attractive, usually dark-colored mulch. It can be purchased in various particle sizes, from shredded to large-sized particles, called nuggets.
Pine Needles
A 2- inch layer of pine needles makes an excellent mulch for acid-loving trees and shrubs. This mulch is very attractive and allows water to penetrate easily. Pine Needles
Shredded Hard Wood Mulch
This mulch is good at suppressing weeds. It does not wash away easily. It decomposes relatively slowly, and it is very attractive. Hard Wood, Black Dye
Wood Chips
This material contains bark and pieces of wood of various sizes and makes an attractive mulch. A 2- to 3- inch layer of wood chips provides good weed control. Small wood chips decompose very rapidly using nitrogen from the soil, which needs to be replaced by nitrogen fertilizer. Wood chips may attract termites and other insects. Wood Chips
Pecan Shells
Pecan shells make a long-lasting, attractive, dark brown mulch that is effective in retaining moisture in the soil. Availability is usually limited to areas where pecans are processed.
Inorganic Mulches
Gravel, Pebbles, and Crushed Stone
These materials are permanent and are best used for permanent plantings such as foundation plants. A 1- inch layer of small rocks will provide good weed control. Do not use them around acid-loving plants since the rocks may add alkaline elements and minerals to the soil. These materials reflect solar radiation and can create a very hot landscape environment during the summer months. Gravel, Pebbles, and Crushed Stone
Black Plastic
Black polyethylene film is very effective in preventing weed growth. It also holds water in the soil.