Growing healthy dahliasDahlias provide great autumn colour and are grown from a potato-like tuber.
Dahlias arrived in Europe from Mexico 200 years ago. They were sent back to Spain from settlers. The tubers were used as a vegetable rather than grown as flowers, but after double blooms were bred in Belgium 50 years later, interest in the flower became more widespread. You can plant these tubers in the ground or in pots straight away now the soil has warmed up. Dig a hole about 6 inches deep ( 15cm) and place the tuber in so that the top in about 3inches (7.5 cm) from the soil surface. Pat the soil around the tuber making sure there are no air pockets. For the tall dahlias, put a stake such as a stout bamboo cane 2ft –3ft (60-90cm) in the dug hole before putting the tuber in, so that it isn’t pierced later as the plant will need support when it is grown. Pick a spot which gets at least a few hours sunshine on a bright day. Don’t plant under trees or in soil that gets waterlogged. They like rich soil so it is best to prepare the area by digging in some well-rotted manure or compost before planting, you can sprinkle bone-meal after digging in your compost for healthy plants and a good show. DAHLIA CARE Dahlias are a very versatile flower. They come in as many colours as you can think of and have as many shapes as well. Dahlias are as small as a golf ball or as large as a dinner plate. Some are as short as 1-½ feet or as tall as 6 feet or more. These flowers are grown from tubers, which are planted in either April or May. Dahlias bloom starting in July and keep on going all the way through to November or until the first frosts appear. Most people will agree that the dahlia is a most attractive plant and they are quite easy to grow. Requirements for healthy dahlias. Full sun for at least half a day Well-drained soil. Well-fed soil with added well-rotted manure applied in spring and autumn. Balanced fertilizer added regularly. Keep slugs off the plants. Mulch the ground in winter. When to plant April and May are ideal times to plant new tubers, as long as the ground is not too wet or cold. It is better to wait until the weather has warmed than to plant too early. The tubers should be planted on their side with sprouts pointing upward 6 to 8 inches deep and covered gradually as they sprout to give them a good strong stalk and to protect the tuber ball from freezing under the ground in winter. A stake can be put in at planting time for tall dahlias. Do not water tubers at planting time. They have enough energy in them to get going. Multi blooms If you pinch the centre of the sprouts out when the plants are 6 to 8 inches high, this will allow more sprouts and gives a much bushier plant. And, of course, more flowers. Harvesting the flowers Cut flowers in the cool of the day. Bring indoors and place stems in a few inches of hot water, 160 F. Leave in the hot water until it cools or until the stems turn dark at the ends this will seal in the water in the stems. The hot water also gives them a longer life and can even liven up wilted blooms. A commercial additive to the water for fresh flowers helps as well. Dividing the tubers When you divide clumps, save all tubers with eyes, even small tubers grow well. Discard any damaged tubers. Locate the eyes on the stalk end and cut into sections with a sharp knife. Eyes can be tiny bumps or can look like slightly indented craters. After cutting they can be dipped in a liquid fungicide or dusted with a bulb powder. Let the cut edges dry overnight before storing to prevent rot. Check stored tubers several times during the winter to be sure all is well. Discard any rotten ones A box lined with a breathable plastic liner layered with clean peat moss, fine sawdust (pine works well), vermiculite or clean potting soil, then covered to prevent evaporation. Store in the garage or a shed. Storing dahlias through the winter Dahlias grow from swollen rootstocks called tubers and it is these that carry the plants through the winter. Wait until after the frost has blackened the foliage and stems of the leaves. This effectively seals up the tissues and restricts the opportunities for fungal diseases to enter. The first few frosts are unlikely to cause any damage to the tubers. Lift the tubers carefully and remove the dead foliage. Allow them to dry off and then rub off any clinging soil. Do not wash the tubers or else they will rot. Invert them to allow any surplus moisture to drain out of their hollow stems and then place them in boxes of peat or composted bark and keep in a cool dry place until the spring.
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