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Transform your garden into a productive plot in just two days


CREATING YOUR OWN RAISED BEDS IN EIGHT EASY STEPS

If you have a wet site or would like to grow plants and vegetables but dislike weeding, then raised beds are for you. (If you do not have the time or handy skills to make your own you could check out the Ready Made Raised Beds page.)  These home made ones can be built quickly and cheaply without being too sore on your back. The back garden here was a marsh, because of the area was built on rock and the water had nowhere to run to. This meant that there was no soak away for the water. Initially a 1metre soak away and the water just sat in it and didn’t drain away. So we had no choice but to build up the garden. Here is a step-by-step account of the work that was needed to create a small productive plot.


STEP 1
Firstly we measured out the size of the site then came up with a workable plan on paper. We were very adventurous at the beginning, but it doesn’t matter if anything is left out as they can be added at a later date. We then decided what features were going to stay in the garden. This didn’t talk long as there were only two clothes line poles in the garden and nothing else apart from mud!

waterlogged garden

 

Pic 1 The waterlogged garden

 

 

 

STEP 2
The existing garden was waterlogged for six months of the year (Pic. 1) The first thing to do when work started, was to clear the site of all of the rubbish and unwanted features. (pic.2)

clearing the site

Pic 2 Clearing the garden

 

 

 

 

STEP 3
The next step was to build the level of the garden up to allow water to drain away and also to get a level surface for the beds to sit on For this we used about five tonnes of coarse sand (pic.3)

cover of sand

 

 

Pic 3 Coarse sand

 

 

 

STEP 4
We chose six foot by three foot (2mxIm) fencing panels for the bed structures; these are a manageable size for the beds as we can reach the middle of them with no effort when it comes to weeding. The planks were nailed together with the help of wooden blocks in the corners. (Pic.4) The wood has been pressure treated and should last at least five years hopefully more.

edge detail

 

Pic 4 details of edges

 

 

 

 

 

STEP 5.

After the beds were constructed they were laid out on the sand. I painted them with a wood stain to match the fence and blend everything together. We chose to have a path running along the centre of the garden and we left at least two to three feet (0.75-1m) between the beds for access with the wheelbarrow and for weeding. We then put the weed block fabric down on the paths. The fabric pushes underneath the wood. This eliminates gaps where weeds can get a hold (pic. 6)

 

beds laid on sand

 

 

Pic 5 the new raised beds were laid out in the sand

 

 

 

 

STEP 6
Now it was time to fill up the beds. I collected a few large trailer loads of good topsoil form a local builder. He was kind enough to give me this free of charge. Before this was used I put very generous amounts of well-rotted horse muck into the empty beds. The manure came from the stables at Inch Island and it is fabulous stuff (Pic.7). I also added all of the contents of the compost bins that were in the garden. I heaped the soil as it settles after a week or so. We also decided where the small patio areas were going to go. I didn’t cement them in, as they are not going to get heavy use and we planned to get the shed put near the fence, which we have done, and the slabs were easily lifted. Wood chip was then put on the paths, we decided on wood chip in preference to gravel, as it was softer on the feet. (pic. 8)

weed block



 

Pic 6 the weed block was put in place

 

 

 

 

 

STEP 7
Now we were ready for planting. Although the area was predominantly for vegetables, we though that room should still be made for flowers. Especially ones that attracted ladybirds and other beneficial insects into the garden. Seeds that were planted soon shot up in the sunshine and heat stored in the soil of the raised beds (pic 9)

horse muck

 

 

Pic 7 Lots of muck to go into the beds

 

 

 

 

STEP 8
Now it was time to sit back and enjoy the fruits of our labour as the garden is very low maintenance. We added a few inexpensive features such as chairs and a small container with water plants. We also filled up some containers with specimen plants for a bit of height in the garden. After two months the garden was really starting to takes shape (pic 10). After a while we were able to concentrate on the finer details of the garden. (pic 11) Because we have grown over wintering vegetables such as broccoli and kale we will get winter interest. The birds will enjoy the feeder that we put out on the cold mornings (pic 12)

wood chip

 

 

Pic 8 Wood chip was added to the paths

 

 

 

 

 

 

WORK IN PROGRESS
The garden is a work in progress and we try to improve it all of the time. Although it is only a small area, the costs can still rise. That is why the plan is a great idea. We can dig it out once a year and see what needs adding next.

 

young plants

vegetable garden

 

Pic s 9 and 10 The plants flourish

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You might be surprised to learn that all of the materials came to well under €300, with enough money to spare to buy some seeds and a bird feeder. We did all of the labour with the help of a neighbour, and all of the goods were sourced locally.  If you would like instant raised beds see Ready Made Raised Beds

 

planting

bird feederPics 11 and 12 Time to add detail



Click here for details on how to make a keyhole bed, simple to maintain and used all over the world.

 

 

Video: Check out the Stackable Raised Beds..

 

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Comments (5)Add Comment
0
try the book
written by Ian gomers, November 13, 2011
I've got the new Raised Vegetable Bed for the Organic Garden book out and have the first chapter available to see on the site....check it out....The ebook is only 4.99!
0
Small City Garden
written by Declan, January 14, 2011
Have a few raised flower beds in my compact garden. I think it definitely give the illustion of more space.
Ian
other materials
written by dee5, May 31, 2010
Hi
I have used old books in the past as a raised bed. I stacked them up like bricks. There was always something to read on a sunny afternoon. A friend of mine grew all of her strawberries in car tyres too, I'm not sure about that though with all of the chemicals in them. Might be like using railway sleepers soaked in creosote....
0
annual care
written by erico7, May 19, 2010
Raised beds require very little maintenance. Each spring or autumn, it's a good idea to top dress with fresh compost and manure, or, if your bed only holds plants for part of the year, go ahead and dig the compost or manure into the top several inches of soil. As with any garden, mulching the top of the soil will help retain moisture and keep weeds down. Moisture retention is important, because raised beds tend to drain faster than conventional beds.
0
Wiki raised bed info
written by Stan, May 17, 2010
The Wikipedia site has some interesting info about how they are intergrated into a permaculuture system.

Raised bed gardening is a form of gardening in which the soil is formed in 3–4 foot (1.0–1.2 m) wide beds, which can be of any length or shape. The soil is raised above the surrounding soil (6 inches to waist high), sometimes enclosed by a frame generally made of wood, rock, or concrete blocks, and enriched with compost. The vegetable plants are spaced in geometric patterns, much closer together than conventional row gardening. The spacing is such that when the vegetables are fully grown, their leaves just barely touch each other, creating a microclimate in which moisture is conserved and weed growth suppressed. Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season; they reduce the need to use poor native soil; and they can reduce weeds if designed properly. Since the gardener does not walk on the raised beds, the soil is not compacted and the roots have an easier time growing. The close plant spacing and the use of compost generally result in higher yields with raised beds in comparison to conventional row gardening. Waist high raised beds enable the old and sick to grow vegetables without having to bend over to tend them.

Raised beds lend themselves to the development of complex agriculture systems that utilize many of the principles and methods of Permaculture. They can be used effectively to control erosion and recycle and conserve water and nutrients by building them along contour lines on slopes. This also makes more space available for intensive crop production. They can be created over large areas with the use of several commonly available tractor-drawn implements and efficiently maintained, planted and harvested using hand tools.

This form of gardening is compatible with square foot gardening and companion planting.

Circular waist high raised beds with a path to the center (a slice of the circle cut out) are called keyhole gardens. Often the center has a chimney of sorts built with sticks and then lined with feedbags or grasses that allows water placed at the center to flow out into the soil and reach the plants' roots. The charity 'Send a Cow' is promoting the creation of these in Africa.

Vegetable Garden Bed Construction materials should be chosen carefully. Some concerns exist over the use of timber such as Treated Pine that was traditionally treated using Chromated Copper Arsenateor CCA, a toxic chemical mix for preserving timber that may leach chemicals into the soil which in turn can be drawn up into the plants, a concern for vegetable growers, where part or all of the plant is eaten. If using timber to raise the garden bed, ensure that it is an untreated hardwood to prevent the risk of chemicals leaching into the soil. A common approach is to use timber sleepers joined with steel rods to hold them together. Another approach is to use concrete blocks, although less aesthetically pleasing, they are cheap to source and easy to use.

Public concern over potential hazards of CCA has led the industry to look for safer, less controversial preservatives. A few years ago, one of the producers of CCA came out with a preservative touted as environmentally sound. ACQ®, which stands for alkaline copper quat, is a mix of copper and a quaternary ammonium compound, nicknamed quat. Small amounts of copper and quat do leach, but nothing in ACQ is considered hazardous by the EPA, and no ingredient is a known or suspected carcinogen. The maker, Chemical Specialties, Inc. (CSI), uses only recycled copper in ACQ. The wood is expected to last as long as CCA-treated lumber.

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